Santorini: spectacular is a word often used in describing the Greek islands but it must surely apply more than most to Santorini. The island is all that remains of a cataclysmic volcanic eruption the occurred around 1640 BC.

Visitors sailing into the flooded crater (or caldera) are greeted by dizzying cliffs with dazzling white villages plastered like dollops of cream on the sky hugging rim.

An island of extraordinary contrasts, it can be both breathtakingly beautiful and deeply unattractive. Those sheer cliffs of red and black can feel intimidating and the island beaches of lifeless ash-grey sand are mediocre at best.

The white cube houses and blue domed churches may tumble attractively down the cliff side in the capital Thira but its streets are heavily developed with expensive cafes, trendy shops, and near nightmare swarms of tourists.

The air is faintly sulphurous and the atmosphere definitely combustible - but this is, after all, still an active volcano and fumes from the caldera are responsible for the sunsets that the island is most famous for.